In the cosmetics industry, consumer-oriented strategy is an important approach to R&D innovation. R&D leaders collect consumer insights to discover issues and improve the product experience. Aside from conducting market research, cosmetics R&D departments we thought it would be fun to gain a few insights through interviewing professionals in the industry. Among the list, we chose makeup artists and went over three makeup artists’ cosmetic brands. From the R&D process of brands, Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier and Bobbi Brown, we discovered that makeup artist’s hands-on experience had helped them identify market gaps and pinpoint consumer needs, and ultimately led to the development of their own cosmetic innovations.
We conducted an interview with makeup artist Dani Weiser, who has been working in the industry for 20 years. Her perspectives provided us with a different angle, and it allowed us to consider the innovation strategy behind changes that happened to cosmetic products and packages during past two decades from the viewpoint of a professional makeup artist.
During the last 20 years the cosmetics industry was developing fast, and products tended to be more diversified. New brands were launched, bringing innovations to cosmetic formulations and applications. In the late 1990s, the bare-face look turned into a trend, and it boosted the development of foundation shades to better match every skin tone. Starting from 2000s, more pigments were introduced to produce eye shadows and eye liners, enabling a wide range of shades for different makeup purposes.
Newlogic: Have you ever planned to develop your own products?
Dani Weiser: Yes, I did, but failed. The main difficulty was not the cosmetics technology or product manufacturing, but accomplishing all legal formalities. For example, you need to have everything tested, but that process will require adequate resources and time. I know many makeup artists who tried but gave up because of similar reasons.
Newlogic: What are some of the biggest changes on cosmetics products that you use for stage and screen makeup?
Dani Weiser: One big change is that many cosmetics brands now offer small packages for their products. In the 2000s, before high-definition video technology was widely adopted, I used very heavy cosmetics for stage and screen make-up. Now I use only half of that volume, or even less, for most TV shows and movies as heavy make-up looks unnatural in HD videos. Smaller packages satisfy my need for bringing more shades of eye shadow, foundations and other cosmetics.
I also use more colors now. No one used blue or green eye shadow in the 1990s, but now, bright tone colors are very common. Cosmetics R&D departments have introduced many bold colors for eye shadow and lip gloss during past 20 years. They also have developed more shades under each color. I have ten different shades of purple eye shadow in my make-up box for work.
Newlogic: What do you think of the innovation made to cosmetic products and their packages?
Dani Weiser: The diversity of cosmetics shades and colors helps me to create different looks easily. I can use the ten purple shades to show different personalities. Foundation shades are roughly categorized, and there are nuances between every skin tone. The availability of more foundation shades helps me to conquer those nuances.
In terms of packaging, small containers have made it easier to carry and to refill. Transparent containers are convenient as I can see the actual color and texture. There have been many changes on package materials and designs, but I prefer simple and compact packaging. Funky packaging is targeted at young generations. As for me, many of my favorite products have changed little and continued using simple design. For example, Clinique and M.A.C use simple and consistent designs for packages over years. It enables me to find the exact product without getting confused by new packaging.
It is the same with formulation development. I don’t usually change products that I’m familiar with using, because trying new products is time-consuming, and I may fail to find the right one. However, one problem about formula innovation is that companies may stop producing old products that I like. It has happened several times that companies have stopped production of a specific shade of eye shadow or lipstick, and I couldn’t find the right substitution.
Newlogic: What’s your background in the industry?
Dani Weiser: I started to work with films and TV shows after I graduated from Greasepaint Makeup School in London. I moved to California and continued my career as a Hollywood makeup artist in 1997. I have worked for many TV shows, commercials and music videos, such as Beverly Hills, 90210 and Juliet Roberts’ music video, “Free Love”. In my personal life, I don’t use products in my make-up box for work. I know my face, and I like using simple colors for my own make-up.
Compiled by Sandra Huang
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